This was the 7th year that I climbed in the 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell competition, and it's the first year I can really say it was truly hell! The day started as usual with a a 10 a.m. shotgun blast and we started up the hill. But even before we arrived at the crag, it was clear that this was going to be a tough year. The weather forecast had been calling for rain much of the weekend and the temperature and the humidity were already combining to make nearly unbearable soup of the air. But David Carpenter and I started the comp with a vague plan and hopes to climb 100 routes each this year. We headed to the North 40 area and jumped on the first open route we came to, a new 5.8+ on the east face of the Kindergarten Boulder named Chico Bonita. This wasn't a bad place to start since there were four short routes in quick succession. We plowed through all four routes, doing two laps each as the rules allow. By this time the sweat was rolling down and were beginning to hit our groove. From the Kindergarten Boulder we cranked up the hill all the way to the last routes at the end of the Land Beyond, two that I had bolted in the last two years called "Another Shorty in the Forty" and "Yo Momma." We kept to our plan in the Land Beyond knocking off nearly every route and taking a couple of whippers just for good measure. As we began our exit and headed toward the North 40 proper, the skies darkened and the rain began to fall. Before long, we found ourselves huddled under a small overhang with about six other guys, having a little dinner snack as we sat out the worst of the downpour. The rain was letting up a little and we were considering getting back to the climbing when to women, without rain coats, one smoking a cigarette, walked up to the climbs we were huddled beneath, threw down their rope, and started climbing. The eight guys taking shelter sure felt pretty small at that point. So we decided it was time to "put on our big girl panties" and get back to work. Even though it was still raining pretty hard, we were climbing again. And we just kept at it as the rain slowly eased up.
We continued on as night fell and the fog set in. Having already given up on any chance of making 100 routes, I knew we were in for a long steamy night. By this time, our brand new fluorescent orange 9.2 sending cord was beginning to look like a woolly worm. The rain and the rope drag in the Land Beyond had combined to nearly destroy our beautiful rope. So we made the strategic 9 p.m. decision to head down to the cabin and get a new rope. This little break in our day also gave us a chance to get some real food, and a change of attitude. Freshly stocked on food and water we headed back to the climbing and went on with our task. Although the rain had stopped, the fog was thick and the mud was everywhere making climbing a real challenge. We pushed on jumping on whatever open routes we could find. Waiting in a line was not on our game plan. A decisive moment came around 3:30 a.m. when we walked by a good 5.10b that had no line. We had been hitting easier routes since the rain, and this was the first time we upped the intensity again. But of course David flashed it, and after one false start I got my butt up it too. But that one harder route was enough to get us going again and make the push through for the next few hours. As always, the hour before dawn is always the hardest. But somewhere around first light (I say light because the sun never peaked out) I counted up routes and realized that I only need a few more and I would be able to beat my route count from 2011. So David and I made one last push, found a last few open routes and made the final blast. We turned our score cards in at 10 a.m. and staggered off for a well need rest. I logged 86 routes and 9,660 points. David had 84 routes and 10,470 routes. Although it was the hardest year of climbing, this was our best year ever for points and routes. We made some good decision this year on where to start, and how to move. I was really happy with my shoe choice again. I went with a big pair of the Evolv Pontas II and a pair of the Evolv Bolt approach shoes. David was rocking the Evolv Shaman's and a pair of La Sportiva approach shoes. Having comfortable shoes that you can climb in, and don't have to take off after every route is key. Also having good approach shoes that you are comfortable climbing in as well. This year I probably climbed 30% of my routes in approach shoes. Which is actually down from the previous years when it was a little drier. The rope situation was a little bit different. We started with the Sterling Nano 9.2 x 50 meters. Of course 50 meters is a good choice for climbing almost everything at the ranch. But the 9.2 just didn't stand up to the abuse we gave it. It got pretty shaggy and water logged and we eventually had to change. But I've got off the damaged ends and should still have enough left to use on some of the smaller walls next year. Our training regiment seems to have paid off as well. We put in more hard routes than ever before even in spite of the weather. But the resting and reflection is over and now it's time to start training for 2013!
No comments:
Post a Comment