What to wear, what to wear

As the big day approaches, yes 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell, the question always comes up, what shoes should I wear?  The first thing I tell new competitors is make damn sure its comfortable shoe.  Not like "normal" climbing shoe comfortable, I mean like really comfortable.  I don't stop after every climb to take my shoes off during hell.  The whole point is to see how many routes you can do in one day.  If you spend one minute changing shoes before every climb, you could be losing nearly half an hour of climbing time, and half an hour of climbing time can add up to several routes, just what you need to meet your goal, or beat the other guy.

The first year I only took one pair of climbing shoes with me.  I developed blisters on my pinky toes from taking them off and on all day.  By the end of the comp it was excruciating to climb, even with my toes taped up.  So I quickly learned to take care of the toes, no matter what the costs.  Over the seven years that I have participated in this comp, I have developed a strategy that works well for me.  I use three pair of shoes.

First, I use a good pair of approach shoes that I can also climb in.  This can be the most important pair of shoes for the entire day, as this is the pair that I spend the most time in.  Not only do I use these shoes for hiking to the climbs and in between, but I also wear them to climb anything I can.  Basically, if I can climb it comfortable in my approach shoes, why would I bother putting on anything else?  So, last year and this year I will be using Evolv's Bolt.  The Bolt is a great mid-weight approach shoe that is nearly perfect for this kind of abuse.  It is built on a running shoe last, but features Evolv Trax rubber, a good toe rand and excellent support.  I did make one modification to them, and that was to add a shock-cord lace system in place of the regular laces.  I don't want to waste time tying my shoes, and with this system I can slide easily in and out.

The next pair of shoes is very important but usually an easier choice.  This is the moderate shoe.  The one I use for routes that are going to require more than the approach shoe can offer.  Here it is important also to use a velcro for quick changes, but this also needs to be a super comfortable shoe.  My choice last year, was the Pontas II.  This is a great all around shoe, and I sized it extremely large so I can wear it on multiple routes without feeling the need to get my toes out for a stretch.  This is my go to guy.  But when I need a little extra mental help, I reach for the big boys.

The Evolv Shaman has the fit and the sensitivity to give me the added boost I need when it counts.  With the "knuckle box" and "love bump" they fit my foot and feel incredible aggressive, without feeling incredibly uncomfortable.  Even though I may only pull them out for a handful of routes during the competition, these are the shoes I must have with me.

So that's my basic shoe strategy for 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell.  Which has also become my shoe strategy for most trips, whether I am guiding, or just out climbing for fun!