11:45 pm the day begins. We are up getting dressed and have a quick breakfast. Gear is sorted, bags are packed. The sky is clear and the winds are very light. Soon we are on the glacier. The squeaky crunch of snow under my crampons tells me that conditions are perfect for climbing.
We move silently through the dark seeing only a circle in front of us illuminated by our head lamps and the circles of light cast by other climbers.
Occasionally a "zero" is heard, the sign for us to stop while the route is being examined or something is being adjusted. The call of "clear" and we continue or slow upward progress winding through a maze of crevasses. Slogging up ridges unsure of how deep the crevasse is to one side or the drop off on the other. Then climbing very steep slopes of snow and ice, gasping for breath and trying to keep moving. Slowly the skies begin to lighten and the headlamps are no longer necessary. We can see the summit it looks so close but it's still so far away. We've crossed snow bridges, jumped crevasses and climbed steep angles when we finally reach the saddle between the twin peaks of Vallunaraju.
It feels like we've done it although we're not quite to the summit. We wait for another party to descend the steep corniced ridge before all go up together the last 100 feet. We crowd together on the small summit, barely room for all of us to stand. 7 climbers and three instructors, most of whom were strangers a week ago. Now friends standing on top.
The descent goes well. The sun is up and we are no longer cold. Water bottles have thawed out and soon we are baking in the heat of the glacier.
As we wind our way down we are now able to fully see the dangers that we had passed in the dark. Gaping crevasses with cold blue ice and bottomless depths.
Soon we are back to the safety of the rock. A much needed break is taken and we all relax and bask in the sunshine.
No comments:
Post a Comment