Boulder Bash X

I find it hard to believe that I have been doing this for 10 years. That's nearly a quarter of my life I have been running a climbing gym. And today is the 10th Boulder Bash competition that we have hosted. The first comp we held was only three months after we opened. We had to pull holds off of routes just to have enough to set the competition problems that first year. And we really didn't have any idea what we were doing at the time. Warren Hulsey was our strongest setter, and we probably stayed at the gym until 4 a.m. finishing the problems and getting everything prepared. But every year it has gotten a little quicker and a little easier. Our planning has improved and the setting has gotten better. We finish earlier every year with a better set of more consistent boulder problems. That is not to say that we've got it perfected. Far from it. It seems there is always something that gets missed or overlooked. And some years the setting has fallen on just a few folks. I remember one year that I set all of the problems V3 and below. Probably half of the competition problems! But this year we have an experienced staff that has just gone through USA Climbing route setting certification. We've got a lot of problems that are pretty unique and a lot of thinking outside the box. I think everyone is going to have a good time. I can't wait to see it.

Game On

So this past weekend we hosted a route setting clinic at the gym.  I brought in Luke Bertlesen, a USA Climbing, level 4 route setter.  Without explaining all of the levels etc., that means that Luke is a very experienced setter, having worked on world cup competitions.  Anyway, he spent two days with us at the gym teaching all of the crew how be to be better and more effective route setters.  We all learned some great tricks and tips.  But most importantly, everyone came away super excited to set new problems for the upcoming competition.  We tried tons of new moves, setting plenty of problems.  Even though I don't have time to set routes and problems like I used to, I still really enjoy the process.  It's part art, part movement, and a whole lot of fun.  To start with a blank wall, pick out a few holds and turn it into a journey that other climbers can enjoy is just a good time.  Don't get me wrong, it's still work.  I am sore two days later, but it is still great.  This is the 10th Boulder Bash we have held.  If you count in the rope comps, the miscellaneous other comps I have probably set for 25 to 30 different competitions.  I can't even imagine how many routes and boulder problems I have set that were not for competitions.  10 years later and I still enjoy it.  Maybe I have finally found what I want to do when I grow up...

Cross Training?

I was not an athletic kid.  I enjoyed playing "army," climbing trees, tag, and Star Wars.  I didn't even really get interested in sports until after college when I took up climbing.  But in the last 10 years I have found myself drawn deeper into more sports as a way to cross train for climbing.  It began with a simple jog.  Before I knew it was running in a 5K.  Last year I ran a trail marathon for some bizarre reason.  Then I took up biking in the summertime because it was too damn hot to climb.  This year I rode in the 100 mile Tour De Rock.  Today, I hopped on a mountain bike for the first time in years.  If I am not careful, my cross training sports are going to get in the way of my rock climbing....

Rendezvous

This past weekend brought one of the most anticipated climbing events back to its original roots.  The Blake Croxdale Memorial Rendezvous returned to Sam's Throne this year.  Put on by Pack Rat Outdoors in Fayetteville, the Rendezvous is a great time to get together with climbers from all over, and to help support the Blake Croxdale Scholarship fund which was set up in honor of a former Pack Rat employee who died in a climbing accident.

My weekend should have started early, as I had planned to go up on Friday and help with the work day at the Throne to finish work with the Arkansas Climbers Coalition and our American Alpine Club Grant.  But instead of getting an early start, I had to wait half the day in Little Rock to pick-up the campground signs to be installed.  But I finally got out of dodge and made it to Sam's in the early afternoon.  I quickly linked up with Rick from Pack Rat and introduced myself to many people I had already met (that seemed to be the theme of the weekend).

Terry Hope from the Forest Service was on hand and much work was already completed.  New split rail fence had been installed around the kiosk area and gravel was dumped out for the pit toilet parking areas.  Greg "the 5.10 rep" and I tackled the installation of cross ties and gravel spreading for the lower outhouse.  Long hard work but it left a finished job with visible results.  Friday night brought a great campfire and new friends with the folks from Pack Rat and visiting climber Lisa Rands.   A late phone call finally tore me away from the fire as my 24HHH partner David and his friends and family called me for directions.  The rolled in late and we started our own fire back at my camp and stayed up even later into the wee morning hours.

Saturday morning eventually rolled around and we were headed to the rock by 11 o'clock!  But with a 2 year old (David's son Cannon) and 2 newer climbers, Kim and Mark, getting moving fast wasn't a priority.  One of my favorite things about climbing is just spending time with friends and introducing new climbers, of all ages, to the sport.  We hit several moderate climbs, picked up some demo shoes for Kim, and even picked up two more friends, Bob and Nancy from Ft. Smith.  It was a good day of climbing and I ran into many old friends, and new friends through out the day.  We finally called it a day before the sun went down and headed back to camp for Kim's now famous Frito Chili Pie!  Saturday night brought a great slide show from Lisa Rand's and the much looked forward to gear raffle which generated plenty of funds for the scholarship fund and many happy winners, me included.

Sunday morning brought about a new challenge.  As David and his crew packed up to head for breakfast at the Ozark Cafe in Jasper, the previous nights beer fueled plans came to visit.  I was suddenly whisked into a plan for 7 climbers to attempt the Grand Traverse at the Valley of the Blind.  Four pitches of 5.10 traversing around an impressive amphitheatre on a route that was seldom dry, how could you miss it?  Reed boldly led the first pitch which was originally rated 5.10d but may be harder with several broken holds that required an aid move or two.  Dave Thompson followed the first pitch as I quickly realized our pace was not going to work to get everyone across unless we were there until dinner.  Since I had unfinished business back at Sam's Throne, I bowed out and left the rest of the crew to have their fun.

A couple of weeks before a dozen of us ARCC members had pulled together at Sam's to attempt to replace 100 bolts in a day.  And we had succeeded, but there was a little work left to be finished.  The crew that I led ran out of glue and left one route undone.  So I returned to "Spank Me" which had spanked us, and finished gluing in the new stainless steel bolts and removing the old manky hardware.  It was a fairly quick job as the holes were already drilled.  All I had to do was rap in and glue the bolts, then jug out and remove the old hardware.  It was a gorgeous day with a nice breeze and perfect temps.  For the first time all weekend I was enjoying a little solitude as I worked hanging in my harness.  It gave me time to reflect on the weekend and all that I have worked to do here with the Arkansas Climbers Coalition, the Access Fund, and the American Alpine Club.  I looked out over the valley and imagined the early pioneers as they moved into the area looking for a brighter future.  I thought about the climbing pioneers who came here and put in all of the hard work to make it a fun and easy place for so many to come climb.  I thought about the current generation of climbers who are working to maintain and improve these areas for the next generation.  I look forward to bringing my kids here when they are big enough to belay for me.

Truly Hell

This was the 7th year that I climbed in the 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell competition, and it's the first year I can really say it was truly hell!  The day started as usual with a a 10 a.m. shotgun blast and we started up the hill.  But even before we arrived at the crag, it was clear that this was going to be a tough year.  The weather forecast had been calling for rain much of the weekend and the temperature and the humidity were already combining to make nearly unbearable soup of the air.  But David Carpenter and I started the comp with a vague plan and hopes to climb 100 routes each this year.  We headed to the North 40 area and jumped on the first open route we came to, a new 5.8+ on the east face of the Kindergarten Boulder named Chico Bonita.  This wasn't a bad place to start since there were four short routes in quick succession.  We plowed through all four routes, doing two laps each as the rules allow.  By this time the sweat was rolling down and were beginning to hit our groove.  From the Kindergarten Boulder we cranked up the hill all the way to the last routes at the end of the Land Beyond, two that I had bolted in the last two years called "Another Shorty in the Forty" and "Yo Momma."  We kept to our plan in the Land Beyond knocking off nearly every route and taking a couple of whippers just for good measure.  As we began our exit and headed toward the North 40 proper, the skies darkened and the rain began to fall.  Before long, we found ourselves huddled under a small overhang with about six other guys, having a little dinner snack as we sat out the worst of the downpour.  The rain was letting up a little and we were considering getting back to the climbing when to women, without rain coats, one smoking a cigarette, walked up to the climbs we were huddled beneath, threw down their rope, and started climbing.  The eight guys taking shelter sure felt pretty small at that point.  So we decided it was time to "put on our big girl panties" and get back to work.  Even though it was still raining pretty hard, we were climbing again.  And we just kept at it as the rain slowly eased up.
  

Back to Hell

It's the day before we leave for Hell.  24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell that is.  The gear is sorted and packed.  Food rationed out and plans made.  But even on this eve of my 7th 24HHH, I am filled with apprehension.  This is the first year it looks like rain is definitely going to be a major factor.  Not the small chance of a passing shower, but major thunderstorms in the forecast.  What might that do to the most grueling climbing competition around?  Nobody knows.  Of course many of us are well beyond reason and will continue to climb as it long as it seems remotely safe.  Obviously the personal records and high number of climbs will not be an issue if we are climbing in torrential downpours.  But will the weather dampen the spirits of the competitors?  Will it be a downer on the party?  Or will it serve to bring us even closer together as a climbing   community?  Will the climbers at this years 24 become a band of brothers and sisters that has withstood a trail by fire, or water?  I can only hope so, but time will tell.

AMGA SPI

Well for whatever reason I have now begun a blog.  As if facebook, twitter, and knowing a million hasn't reduced my personal privacy to zero.  I have now decided to work more on self-promotion and marketing.  Current happenings?  I finished my American Mountain Guide Association assessment to re-certify my Single Pitch Instructor designation last week.  This is the second time I have been through the assessment and it was  only a little less stressful this time than the first round three years ago.  It's a great program which I learned a great deal, and I really enjoy getting together with like minded climbers to hone our craft.  I have been taking my courses AMGA course through Fox Mountain Guides out of North Carolina, although they have always been kind enough to travel to Arkansas and hold courses at Horseshoe Canyon Ranch, my "home turf."  The SPI course covers taking clients out climbing for a day in single pitch terrain.  Which is something I have done for many years.  The first time I took this course it was a big eye opening experience.  Not because I was doing anything wrong, incorrect, or dangerous.  But because it taught me so many ways to do things more efficiently, quicker, and to provide a better over all experience to my clients.  The biggest challenge I face in this course, is that it covers a number of rescue and assistance skills that fortunately I have not had to use.  But those are just things that I need to practice a little more regularly.  It also covers what we call "top-managed sites" where the participants begin and end their climbs at the top and not the bottom of the cliff.  These are great skills to have, but unfortunately not ones that we get to use much here in Arkansas.  So after my latest assessment I have decided to work a little harder on my guiding skills, and to try and use more of my knowledge in the field.  I guess you could say I have grown comfortable in doing the same old kind of things every trip.  It's time to push the envelope and try a few new tricks.  I will let you know how it goes.