Boulder Bash X

I find it hard to believe that I have been doing this for 10 years. That's nearly a quarter of my life I have been running a climbing gym. And today is the 10th Boulder Bash competition that we have hosted. The first comp we held was only three months after we opened. We had to pull holds off of routes just to have enough to set the competition problems that first year. And we really didn't have any idea what we were doing at the time. Warren Hulsey was our strongest setter, and we probably stayed at the gym until 4 a.m. finishing the problems and getting everything prepared. But every year it has gotten a little quicker and a little easier. Our planning has improved and the setting has gotten better. We finish earlier every year with a better set of more consistent boulder problems. That is not to say that we've got it perfected. Far from it. It seems there is always something that gets missed or overlooked. And some years the setting has fallen on just a few folks. I remember one year that I set all of the problems V3 and below. Probably half of the competition problems! But this year we have an experienced staff that has just gone through USA Climbing route setting certification. We've got a lot of problems that are pretty unique and a lot of thinking outside the box. I think everyone is going to have a good time. I can't wait to see it.

Game On

So this past weekend we hosted a route setting clinic at the gym.  I brought in Luke Bertlesen, a USA Climbing, level 4 route setter.  Without explaining all of the levels etc., that means that Luke is a very experienced setter, having worked on world cup competitions.  Anyway, he spent two days with us at the gym teaching all of the crew how be to be better and more effective route setters.  We all learned some great tricks and tips.  But most importantly, everyone came away super excited to set new problems for the upcoming competition.  We tried tons of new moves, setting plenty of problems.  Even though I don't have time to set routes and problems like I used to, I still really enjoy the process.  It's part art, part movement, and a whole lot of fun.  To start with a blank wall, pick out a few holds and turn it into a journey that other climbers can enjoy is just a good time.  Don't get me wrong, it's still work.  I am sore two days later, but it is still great.  This is the 10th Boulder Bash we have held.  If you count in the rope comps, the miscellaneous other comps I have probably set for 25 to 30 different competitions.  I can't even imagine how many routes and boulder problems I have set that were not for competitions.  10 years later and I still enjoy it.  Maybe I have finally found what I want to do when I grow up...