Cross Training?

I was not an athletic kid.  I enjoyed playing "army," climbing trees, tag, and Star Wars.  I didn't even really get interested in sports until after college when I took up climbing.  But in the last 10 years I have found myself drawn deeper into more sports as a way to cross train for climbing.  It began with a simple jog.  Before I knew it was running in a 5K.  Last year I ran a trail marathon for some bizarre reason.  Then I took up biking in the summertime because it was too damn hot to climb.  This year I rode in the 100 mile Tour De Rock.  Today, I hopped on a mountain bike for the first time in years.  If I am not careful, my cross training sports are going to get in the way of my rock climbing....

Rendezvous

This past weekend brought one of the most anticipated climbing events back to its original roots.  The Blake Croxdale Memorial Rendezvous returned to Sam's Throne this year.  Put on by Pack Rat Outdoors in Fayetteville, the Rendezvous is a great time to get together with climbers from all over, and to help support the Blake Croxdale Scholarship fund which was set up in honor of a former Pack Rat employee who died in a climbing accident.

My weekend should have started early, as I had planned to go up on Friday and help with the work day at the Throne to finish work with the Arkansas Climbers Coalition and our American Alpine Club Grant.  But instead of getting an early start, I had to wait half the day in Little Rock to pick-up the campground signs to be installed.  But I finally got out of dodge and made it to Sam's in the early afternoon.  I quickly linked up with Rick from Pack Rat and introduced myself to many people I had already met (that seemed to be the theme of the weekend).

Terry Hope from the Forest Service was on hand and much work was already completed.  New split rail fence had been installed around the kiosk area and gravel was dumped out for the pit toilet parking areas.  Greg "the 5.10 rep" and I tackled the installation of cross ties and gravel spreading for the lower outhouse.  Long hard work but it left a finished job with visible results.  Friday night brought a great campfire and new friends with the folks from Pack Rat and visiting climber Lisa Rands.   A late phone call finally tore me away from the fire as my 24HHH partner David and his friends and family called me for directions.  The rolled in late and we started our own fire back at my camp and stayed up even later into the wee morning hours.

Saturday morning eventually rolled around and we were headed to the rock by 11 o'clock!  But with a 2 year old (David's son Cannon) and 2 newer climbers, Kim and Mark, getting moving fast wasn't a priority.  One of my favorite things about climbing is just spending time with friends and introducing new climbers, of all ages, to the sport.  We hit several moderate climbs, picked up some demo shoes for Kim, and even picked up two more friends, Bob and Nancy from Ft. Smith.  It was a good day of climbing and I ran into many old friends, and new friends through out the day.  We finally called it a day before the sun went down and headed back to camp for Kim's now famous Frito Chili Pie!  Saturday night brought a great slide show from Lisa Rand's and the much looked forward to gear raffle which generated plenty of funds for the scholarship fund and many happy winners, me included.

Sunday morning brought about a new challenge.  As David and his crew packed up to head for breakfast at the Ozark Cafe in Jasper, the previous nights beer fueled plans came to visit.  I was suddenly whisked into a plan for 7 climbers to attempt the Grand Traverse at the Valley of the Blind.  Four pitches of 5.10 traversing around an impressive amphitheatre on a route that was seldom dry, how could you miss it?  Reed boldly led the first pitch which was originally rated 5.10d but may be harder with several broken holds that required an aid move or two.  Dave Thompson followed the first pitch as I quickly realized our pace was not going to work to get everyone across unless we were there until dinner.  Since I had unfinished business back at Sam's Throne, I bowed out and left the rest of the crew to have their fun.

A couple of weeks before a dozen of us ARCC members had pulled together at Sam's to attempt to replace 100 bolts in a day.  And we had succeeded, but there was a little work left to be finished.  The crew that I led ran out of glue and left one route undone.  So I returned to "Spank Me" which had spanked us, and finished gluing in the new stainless steel bolts and removing the old manky hardware.  It was a fairly quick job as the holes were already drilled.  All I had to do was rap in and glue the bolts, then jug out and remove the old hardware.  It was a gorgeous day with a nice breeze and perfect temps.  For the first time all weekend I was enjoying a little solitude as I worked hanging in my harness.  It gave me time to reflect on the weekend and all that I have worked to do here with the Arkansas Climbers Coalition, the Access Fund, and the American Alpine Club.  I looked out over the valley and imagined the early pioneers as they moved into the area looking for a brighter future.  I thought about the climbing pioneers who came here and put in all of the hard work to make it a fun and easy place for so many to come climb.  I thought about the current generation of climbers who are working to maintain and improve these areas for the next generation.  I look forward to bringing my kids here when they are big enough to belay for me.

Truly Hell

This was the 7th year that I climbed in the 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell competition, and it's the first year I can really say it was truly hell!  The day started as usual with a a 10 a.m. shotgun blast and we started up the hill.  But even before we arrived at the crag, it was clear that this was going to be a tough year.  The weather forecast had been calling for rain much of the weekend and the temperature and the humidity were already combining to make nearly unbearable soup of the air.  But David Carpenter and I started the comp with a vague plan and hopes to climb 100 routes each this year.  We headed to the North 40 area and jumped on the first open route we came to, a new 5.8+ on the east face of the Kindergarten Boulder named Chico Bonita.  This wasn't a bad place to start since there were four short routes in quick succession.  We plowed through all four routes, doing two laps each as the rules allow.  By this time the sweat was rolling down and were beginning to hit our groove.  From the Kindergarten Boulder we cranked up the hill all the way to the last routes at the end of the Land Beyond, two that I had bolted in the last two years called "Another Shorty in the Forty" and "Yo Momma."  We kept to our plan in the Land Beyond knocking off nearly every route and taking a couple of whippers just for good measure.  As we began our exit and headed toward the North 40 proper, the skies darkened and the rain began to fall.  Before long, we found ourselves huddled under a small overhang with about six other guys, having a little dinner snack as we sat out the worst of the downpour.  The rain was letting up a little and we were considering getting back to the climbing when to women, without rain coats, one smoking a cigarette, walked up to the climbs we were huddled beneath, threw down their rope, and started climbing.  The eight guys taking shelter sure felt pretty small at that point.  So we decided it was time to "put on our big girl panties" and get back to work.  Even though it was still raining pretty hard, we were climbing again.  And we just kept at it as the rain slowly eased up.