Well yesterday I got back on the ropes! I took it fairly easy climbing mostly 5.7-5.9. I did onsight a new 5.10a but that's as hard as I went. For the climbing training we will focus mainly on climbing lots of routes at lower difficulty. One method Dave and I use to train for 24HHH is to climb up and down each route. (although we didn't do that yesterday on our first day back)
When possible we also like to link a couple of routes in a row. That extends the time on the wall and helps with the endurance required for 24HHH. So now that we are climbing again this is what my training schedule looks like....
Monday - Rock-fit workout #1 (core, shoulders, legs)
Tuesday - run & Climb!
Wednesday - Rock-fit workout #2 (core, shoulders, arms)
Thursday - run & CLIMB!!
Friday - Rock-fit workout #3 (core, shoulders, back & arms)
Saturday - REST
Sunday - Bike 20+ miles
Wednesday, June 24, 2009
Sunday, June 21, 2009
Diagnosis
Well good news on the shoulder. I went to see Doc Tilley on Friday. Dr. Stephen Tilley is well known around town, a great family practitioner, and climber! So I knew he would take time and have a better understanding of climbers injuries. Doc Tilley was pretty certain that it wasn't a serious rotator cuff injury. Looks like it could be a strain, pull, or tear of the tendon which attaches the bicep to the shoulder. So we are going to start with a round of non-steroidal anti-inflamatories. If that does the job great. If not, we will try a cortosoine injection, and move on from there. Doc Tilley says I should be fine to do a little light climbing, nothing too strenuous. "If it hurts don't do it." Good news!!
So Saturday I took a rest day with only a little bit of swimming at a pool party. Today I put in 25 miles on the bike along the river trail. It's way too hot to do much else outside.
We have our 24HHH training group again on Wednesday night at 7 p.m. Be there!!
So Saturday I took a rest day with only a little bit of swimming at a pool party. Today I put in 25 miles on the bike along the river trail. It's way too hot to do much else outside.
We have our 24HHH training group again on Wednesday night at 7 p.m. Be there!!
Friday, June 19, 2009
Going Solo!
Well my partner had other obligations this morning so I did my best to stay self motivated. I pushed myself through another "hour of power" work-out. It went a little something like this....
- Stretches- Legs, arms, shoulders, everything
- 10 knee lifts
- 5 minutes on the treadwall to warm-up using a crossover drill
- 5 minutes of stair runs
- Half moons with 15 lbs
- 20 calf raises with a 20lb pack
- 20 rock stacks with a 36 lb tape ball
- Get-ups with a 42 lb bag
- 5 minutes of step-ups with a 20 lb pack
- Slasher to Halo exercise with 8 lb weight
- 1 set of mini leg blasters.
- 2 sets of suicide sprints.
I was hoping to get in 3 sets of suicides, but after the leg blasters, I didn't have anything left! I got many of these exerciese from a gym in Jackson, Wyoming called Mountain Athlete. They train climbers, skiers, mountaineers, etc. Check it out @ http://www.mtnathlete.com/index.php.
Thursday, June 18, 2009
Back to Work
OK, enough time off. I was on vacation last week so I took a bit of a vacation from training. I ran a mile or two every other day while on vacation. Outside of carrying my 30 lb daughter on my shoulders around the zoo, and climbing trees with my son, I didn't get much training or exercise. But today, Dave and I hit it hard.
We've started a new workout here at the gym. Let's call it the "Warehouse workout." Basically it's an hour of hardcore exercises here in the the climbing gym using heavy bags and packs along with some of the climbing equipment and facilites we have. Dave and I are still fine tuning the elements that we will include, but so far we've got a really good set of exercises that are working the whole body! Stay tuned, more to come on that.
As far as the old shoulder injury.... it's been 7 weeks and it's not showing much improvement. I tried as few push-ups today and that didn't go to well. So tomorrow I've scheduled an appointment with Dr. Tilley. He's a climber and a good guy, so I hope he can steer me in the right direction! We will see how that goes.
We've started a new workout here at the gym. Let's call it the "Warehouse workout." Basically it's an hour of hardcore exercises here in the the climbing gym using heavy bags and packs along with some of the climbing equipment and facilites we have. Dave and I are still fine tuning the elements that we will include, but so far we've got a really good set of exercises that are working the whole body! Stay tuned, more to come on that.
As far as the old shoulder injury.... it's been 7 weeks and it's not showing much improvement. I tried as few push-ups today and that didn't go to well. So tomorrow I've scheduled an appointment with Dr. Tilley. He's a climber and a good guy, so I hope he can steer me in the right direction! We will see how that goes.
Wednesday, June 3, 2009
Hike Climb Bike
Today we cross train! Start at the Pinnacle Mountain State Park visitors center. Hike the beginning of the Ouachita Trail to the Pinnacle Mountain east trailhead parking. Follow the east trail until we come to the first climable rock face. Rope up and climb anything we can taking the hardest routes to the summit. Descend and hike back to the visitors center. Change clothes and bike 6.5 miles out to 2 Rivers Park. Then ride back, uphill.... Anyone up for doing it again tomorrow???
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