Tuesday, October 22, 2013

Confessions of a climbing gym route setter

I really do enjoy watching you suffer.  They way you struggle to pull on that tiny little crimp makes me giggle.  When you grease off of that nasty sloper, I smile.  I like to see you strain and grunt and groan as you try to get the sit-start that I can barely do myself.  I like to see you lying there staring at my latest problem, my little momentary work of art, trying desperately to decipher the beta and finish the problem.  I stand back and silently coach you through the crux from across the gym.  I am pleased when it makes you work harder.  I am sad if everyone flashes the new problem, and sadder yet if no one climbs it at all.  I like watching you progress as a climber over time, from the first day you roll into the climbing gym and rent a pair of shoes, to the day you send your first V4 and come tell me about it excitedly.  I like to watch you grow stronger and leaner and become a better climber.  I feel a part of your success, and I feel partly responsible for your failures.  I enjoy witnessing the joy when you send your project and seeing the tiredness in your eyes when you leave at the end of the night.  Most of all, I like to watch you climb.

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